![]() ![]() Seals vary on trailers, with the two most common being stemco 2109, and 2110. Quite often the inner is a 218248, and outer is a 212049. Assuming someone with survey and/or hull repair experience has inspected your transom and it is sound (very important) there are aftermarket setback brackets which will bolt to your transom without modification. Our inboard and outboard boat motors offer industry-leading performance. Order a new electric boat motor or controller for your pontoon, sailboat, and more. Take that versus a gas or diesel engine that could cost you anywhere from 50 to 75 dollars a day to gas up. Also, I think the left side is left threads. Yes, you can convert from an inboard/outboard to an outboard. It charges up each night, and usually costs only 1.50. Very strong units, using the 1 piece outer cap, threaded into the hub, with about a 4 13/16 hex for removing it. Both inner and outer are the same size, and the spindle vaguely resembles a pipe. The only trailer axles I can think of that don't have a smaller outboard bearing, are fruehauf axles. I beleive Dayton hubs have the straight axle, all bearings are the same size (the outer bearing doesn't step down), If you tear it down, you will realize why, its a completely different set-up, mainly due to inboard drums. I can then put a solar panel up there to keep the batteries charged when running all the accessories while at anchor and also free up some dash space by relocating some electronics overhead.No way to do it w/o swapping the above mentioned hub, bearings, drums, etc. The pic is the style of frame I am going for, light weight without the canvas obviously. They fill the front berth and get wet if stored on the bow in cross winds. I am also removing the bimini and installing a light weight foam core hard top to store bulky swags. I removed the IB and closed in the holes myself. I replaced a 250HP 5.7L Alpha1 Gen II with an custom aluminum pod and a Suzuki DF300 and a Suzuki 20hp kicker. Maybe it will help you make your decision. Extend the waterline or raise it to become a semi floatation pod? Here is my 2001 Trophy 2359 I/O conversion. Floatation pod? This will assist in accommodating the engine weight but possibly further increase the instability. What size engine would you recommend? I was thinking 225hp possibly 300hp so the engine is not working as hard when cruising I understand that moving a large weight from below the water line to above and aft will create some stability issues so I have a few questions from those that have seen this done before. The outboard hanging off the stern will be an obstacle to dodge when fishing but that said, I have a bait board there and walking around that huge mound while fighting marlin in a swell is no easy task. A lift up bench seat will be better to park some butts over the bait tank and step. ![]() Adding a swim platform would make entry/exit from the water more accessible when spearfishing and give a safe space to store extra juice for long range trips. This will remove the eskys from zipping across the deck freeing up more space. A large storage space would be well loved, especially when dropping 6-10kg fish in there one after another. Want to convert your engine and outdrive motor system into an outboard How about an engine bracket Well in this informative show, John will teach you ho. ![]() The engine cover is a pain and would increase the deck space for a multitude of activities. Hoping not to stir up a hornets nest here. There are a number of reasons why I'd like to do the conversion and are posting in this forum because I'm hoping there are people here who would like to share their skills and knowledge rather than spouting out comments as if they are fact without any experience in the fact. I have been toying with the idea of popping an outboard on my trophy for a while now and are at the point where the leader of the opposition is onside, so its happening. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |